How to Care for Apple Trees

Caring for apple trees involves regular watering, feeding, mulching, and pruning to maintain a healthy tree and encourage fruit production.

Caring for New Apple Trees

During the first year, apple trees require extra attention. Water regularly during dry spells, but avoid overwatering. Once the tree is established, watering is only necessary during very dry periods. In early spring, feed the tree with a balanced fertiliser and apply a tree mat or mulch around the base to help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Make sure the mulch doesn't touch the trunk, as this can cause rot.

If you have yet to buy your apple tree then check out this blog. How to Choose and Plant an Apple Tree

When to Prune Apple Trees

Pruning is vital for keeping apple trees healthy. Prune in winter (November to March) to shape the tree and encourage fruiting. or prune in Summer (around July) to remove dead or diseased branches.

Before pruning, understand your tree's cropping habit to avoid cutting off buds needed for next year's fruit.

Understanding the Cropping Habit Apple trees

Different varieties have different cropping habits: spur-bearers, tip-bearers, and partial tip-bearers.

Spur-bearers

Spur bearers such as 'Cox's Orange Pippin,' produce fruit on two-year-old wood and spurs (which are short knobby looking shoots on older branches).  These spurs develop spaced out all along the main branches. Over time they will develop into what is called a “spur systems”.  So, mature apple trees produce fruit all along the branches coming out of these spurs. 

Tip-bearers

Tip bearers, like 'Irish Peach,' carry fruit at the tips of long shoots formed the previous season. This means you have to look out for these already formed fruit buds on the tips of the branches and not cut them off when you prune in the dormant season.

Partial Tip-Bearers

While partial tip-bearers, including 'Bramley's Seedling,' produce fruit both on shoot tips and spurs. These are a little more common than tip-bearers.

How to Identify Apple Tree Fruit Buds

Apple trees have two types of buds:

Fruit Buds

Found on stems, either at the tip or between leaf axils, and contain flowers that may develop into fruit. These buds are typically downy and may be surrounded by leaves.

Wood Buds

Smaller and more pointed, these buds produce new shoots and leaves but not flowers.

How to Prune Apple Trees

Use sharp, clean tools to make smooth cuts and prevent disease. In the first few years, pruning may be minimal, but it’s important to establish good habits.

Step-by-Step Apple Tree Pruning Guide

1. Remove Dead or Diseased Wood: Start by cutting out dead, damaged, or diseased branches to prevent pests and diseases from spreading. Trim down to the spurs (short, stubby twigs).
2. Prune Crossing Branches: Identify branches that rub against each other or cross through the tree's centre. These can create wounds that may become infected. Remove the less desirable branch to maintain a well-spaced canopy.
3. Encourage Airflow: Thin the canopy to allow sunlight and air to penetrate the tree's interior, reducing the risk of fungal diseases and improving fruit ripening.
4. Shape the Tree: Prune back vigorous growth to maintain a balanced shape, aiming for an open-centred structure that lets sunlight reach all parts of the tree.
5. Final Touches: Step back and assess the tree's overall shape, making any last cuts for the desired structure. Remove suckers (thin shoots that sprout from the tree's base).

Summer pruning is often used on trained trees to control growth direction and limit upward growth by cutting off extra shoots and tips of the main stem.

Recommended Equipment for Pruning and Care

1. Tree Guard: Wraps around the young tree trunk, protecting it from pests like rabbits and deer, and from damage during mowing.
2. Tree Mat: A fibre mat placed around the tree base to suppress weeds and retain moisture.
3. Secateurs: A good pair of sharp secateurs is essential for making clean cuts.
4. Gloves: Protect your hands from scratches and sap.

And for later on, when your tree is bigger

1. Pruning Shears: Useful for thicker branches.
2. Loppers: Ideal for larger branches that secateurs can’t handle.
3. Pruning Saw: For cutting substantial branches.
4. Tree Net: keep pests off your trees and ensure a pristine crop with a tree net. 

Common Pests and Diseases of Apple Trees

1. Maggots: Holes in apples indicate codling moth larvae. Use moth traps from May to August.
2. Mildew: A grey powder on shoots and buds indicates mildew. Prune affected branches if it’s a moderate problem, or use fungicide for severe cases.
3. Aphids: These pests cause leaf curling but typically don’t harm the fruit.
4. Canker: This fungal disease causes the bark to shrink and flake. Prune affected areas back to remove all infected tissue.
5. Fire-blight: Makes leaves and shoots look burned. This bacterial disease requires cutting affected branches at least 60 cm back from the infection. Disinfect tools to prevent spreading. Severely infected trees may need to be removed and destroyed.

How Long before you can Harvest Apples?

Most apple trees begin to produce fruit 3-5 years after planting, depending on the variety and rootstock. Trees on dwarfing rootstocks may bear fruit as early as two years, while those on more vigorous rootstocks can take five years or more. Harvest apples from late summer to autumn, picking them when they twist off the branch easily.

Fun Fact There are over 7,000 apple varieties grown worldwide, with the UK alone home to more than 2,500, each with unique flavours and textures. If you would like to start from scratch and grow an apple tree then check out this blog How to Grow Apples from Seed 

Which one will you choose?